USA Today - January 5, 2007

Portland's palate takes an artisanal turn
by Jerry Shriver

PORTLAND, Ore. — Though it's often cursed with gloomy weather, this riverfront outpost belongs among the blessed ranks of hot and hip cultural centers thanks to its edgy arts scene — particularly the culinary arts.

A decade ago, rising-star chefs such as Cory Schreiber of Wildwood, Vitaly Paley of Paley's Place and Greg Higgins of Higgins modernized Pacific Northwest cooking by cultivating connections with area farmers, fishermen, winemakers and artisanal food producers. They preached the gospel of organics and sustainable agriculture and spread their beliefs to young cooks and patrons.

Today, the spirit thrives in smaller, less flashy eateries. Chefs at places such as Noble Rot, Le Pigeon and Simpatica Dining Hall showcase the region's best ingredients, but they reject many of the trappings of fine dining.

"Because there's not so much emphasis on style, food remains the focus," Schreiber says.

To see where the back-to-the-land approach ignited and where it has spread, check out some of these places (prices reflect the range of dinner entrees):

Wildwood

Cory Schreiber's vibrant shrine to the bounty of the Pacific Northwest may not seem as revelatory as when it opened in 1994, but it remains a must-visit nevertheless. Under new executive chef Dustin Clark (Schreiber keeps his hand in daily operations but is no longer an owner), the approach remains the same: Take pristine ingredients such as mussels, salmon, lamb, morel mushrooms, hazelnuts, berries and artisanal cheeses, and treat them simply and very well. Typical of the frequently changing menu items are the pan-seared Washington ling cod with smoked cauliflower purée, delicata squash and spinach (a steal at lunch for $14); Dungeness crab and potato cakes; and a dessert of sugar pumpkin roulade with cream cheese and pumpkin ice cream.
Entrees: $19-$27 To visit: 1221 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-248-9663 wildwoodrestaurant.com

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